Saturday, November 8, 2025

Moroccan Odyssey: Some final thoughts

( I will be writing more over the next few days to backfill the days with photos only, so keep checking back)


A few parting thoughts about Morocco

Our trip to Morocco was probably one of the most eye-opening and informative trips we have taken.  Morocco is an extremely ecologically diverse region with beautiful Atlantic and Mediterranean coastlines, 4 rugged mountain ranges that divide the country (Riff Mountains, High Atlas, Mid Atlas, ad Anti Atlas mountains), and of course, the Sahara Desert. Each have their own charm and beauty.  The people, too, are as diverse as their topography but were without exception friendly and helpful.  We were able to meet a wide array of lovely people through OAT including an urban family in Fes, nomads in the desert and in the mountains, farmers in northern Morocco and a local family in Ait Ben Haddou that farm olives and fabricate bricks.

We also learned a ton about Islam from our two guides, Mo and Younes.  We feel we have a much better understanding of it now than when we left the States.

Another positive aspect of the trip was learning about how large a part Judaism has played in Morocco and north Africa in general over the past 2,000 years. Judaism in Morocco has one of the oldest and most remarkable histories of any Jewish community in the diaspora. Its roots stretch back over two thousand years, predating the Arab and even Roman presence in North Africa. Jewish merchants and refugees are believed to have arrived after the destruction of the First Temple in Jerusalem in 586 BCE, and later waves came after the fall of the Second Temple and again after the expulsion of Jews from Spain and Portugal in 1492–1497. These Iberian refugees, known as Megorashim, joined the long-established Toshavim (indigenous Jews), profoundly influencing Moroccan Jewish culture, language, and scholarship. Jews flourished as traders, artisans, translators, financiers, and diplomats.

Periods of tolerance and royal protection alternated with times of hardship or persecution. Under French colonial rule (1912–1956), many Jews benefited from new educational and economic opportunities. After Morocco’s independence, Arab nationalism, and the founding of Israel led to a mass emigration. Between 1948 and the 1970s, nearly 250,000 Moroccan Jews resettled in Israel, France, and Canada, leaving only about 3,000 today.

Morocco has tried to maintain its Judaic roots, though. Its constitution's preamble notes Morocco's "Hebraic" heritage, and  restored synagogues, cemeteries, and festivals attest to enduring coexistence and a shared past. Today, Morocco proudly preserves its Jewish legacy as part of its broader cultural and religious pluralism.


We also learned about the indigenous Berber, or Amzigh people who are distinctly differnet than the Arab people who colonized the region.  The Amzizh have recently gained recognition  by the Moroccan government, and their language has become  a second national language (along with Arabic). The Amazigh are very proud of theri heritage and fought to gain this recognition. Their traditions and language and alphabet are very different from Arabic.


There are a few dark sides of Morocco as well that should be noted.

1.  Pollution and Litter:



While Morocco is beautiful and vibrant, the presence of litter, especially plastics, is very sad and striking. It is related to several factors including:

Rapid Urbanization and Population Growth

Morocco’s cities (like Casablanca, Marrakesh, and Tangier) have grown quickly in recent decades, often faster than local governments could expand waste management systems. As people move from rural to urban areas, garbage collection services struggle to keep up.

Limited Waste Management Infrastructure

Although Morocco has made progress (for instance, banning plastic bags in 2016 and launching national cleanup initiatives), waste collection is inconsistent outside major tourist zones.

  • In small towns and rural areas, garbage trucks are infrequent or nonexistent.

  • Open dumping remains common, particularly in informal settlements and along rural roads.

Public Awareness and Behavior

Littering is often a result of habit and limited environmental education. In some communities, there’s little awareness of the long-term environmental impact of throwing trash on the ground, and few public trash bins are available.
That said, environmental awareness is growing — especially among younger Moroccans and through local NGOs.

Tourism and Seasonal Pressure

Popular destinations like Marrakesh or Essaouira can see huge influxes of visitors, especially during festivals and holidays. Municipal services are often overwhelmed during these peaks.

Plastic Dependence

Before the 2016 ban, Morocco was one of Africa’s largest consumers of plastic bags. Despite the ban, illegal plastic production and smuggling persist. The result: plastic bags and wrappers still litter roadsides, beaches, and fields.

 Economic and Policy Gaps

Recycling systems are still developing. Informal waste pickers do much of the recycling work, but without formal integration or support. Some municipalities prioritize tourism zones for cleaning, leaving residential or rural areas neglected.


There are several initiatives that have been instituted to correct the problems both government and grassroots based.

National Waste Recovery Program (“PNVDM”):

The key aims are to build modern landfills / treatment centers; rehabilitate old uncontrolled dump sites; reduce reliance on simple landfilling; increase waste recovery and recycling.

National plan for household waste recovery:

100% professional collection & cleaning of domestic waste; building 50 provincial waste disposal & recovery centres; permanently closing 233 old landfills.

World Bank support for Morocco’s municipal solid waste system

Plastic Pollution & Recycling Goals:

Morocco has committed to reducing plastic pollution by 70% by 2030 and instituted a plastic‐bag ban (the “Zéro Mika” campaign) 

Private citizen and NGO initiatives


2.  Cats







Morocco, is a country famous for its spices, its medinas, its breathtaking desert landscapes… and its cats. So many cats that you start to wonder if there’s a secret feline government operating behind the scenes.

As soon as you enter  a Moroccan souk, you know what I mean. You turn a corner expecting to find a spice merchant, and instead you find six cats running a fish market.

Their dominance involves a complicated socio-economic arrangement in which the cats provide rodent control services, and in return, Moroccans feed them leftover sardines, couscous, and occasionally, full diplomatic immunity.

You see, in many Muslim cultures, cats are respected animals — the Prophet Muhammad is said to have loved them — and that translates, in Morocco, to a national policy of “let’s just feed them all and see what happens.” What happens, it turns out, is a feline population explosion that has successfully colonized every alleyway, mosque courtyard, and café terrace in the country.

SPA du Maroc says “thousands upon thousands of kittens are born every day … to family pets, stray cats living on the streets, and feral cats.” There is no info on just how many cats there are, but the numbers are estimated in the millions.  Pregnant cats and cute baby kittens ae everywhere.

Morocco is not the place to be if you are allergic to cats! 


3.  Paper towels are hard to find:

In restaurants, napkins are usually small tissue-like squares — not the large, absorbent paper towels familiar in the west, and bathrooms usually have tissues for hand drying.  Have you ever tried to dry your hands with tissues?  Not even the thick ones, single ply.  I still have little bits of tissue stuck to my hands.  Cost and availability are two reasons for a dearth of Bounty.  When we landed in Boston, I was ecstatic to find a Georgia Pacific towel dispenser in the men's room. Small pleasures.


4. Rocks

Another takeway from Morocco is that there are rocks everywhere. Big rocks, little rocks, rocks pretending to be pebbles, pebbles pretending to be rocks, 



And the Moroccans, being extremely practical, have decided to build things out of the rocks like walls, kasbahs, and roads, because why import concrete when you’re literally tripping over the building material? 




One of life's little mysteries is why after thousands of years of stone utilization  are there still stones everywhere? They are like bunny rabbits.

Friday, November 7, 2025

Morrocan Odyssey Day 18

Morocco Day 18: Marrakesh 



In the medina we found the Bahia Palace. It was built in stages between 1867 and 1900 by Si Moussa, Grand Vizier (chief minister) of Sultan Hassan I. and his son Ba Ahmed ( the next Grand Vizier), the latter naming it for his wife (or wives).  Bahia means brilliance or beautiful in Arabic, thus the "Palace of the Beautiful". 










The Bahia Palace covers about 20 acres of courtyards, rooms, and gardens. The palace is surrounded by lush riyadh-style gardens, filled with cypress, jasmine, banana trees, orange trees, and fountains.
It was  designed as a private oasis for relaxation, symbolizing paradise on earth in Islamic culture. The palace was used for several scenes in the movies,  "Lawrence of Arabia", and "the Man Who Knew Too Much".






Cat door


Rather than walking back to the souk from the palace, we all piled into the local version of a tuk-tuk, called a pouspous or toktok.  These are 3-wheeled gas powered rickshaws driven by disabled people in order to give them employment. They each uncomfortably seated 4 people in addition to the driver and Jeri and I were in one with Carol and Hope, Dave and Molly in another with Sandi and Bob,  and Rich and Suzanne piled into a third with Debra and Steven from our group.





The ride was terribly exciting with the toktoks weaving in and out of traffic, but when we finally got back to the souk, we were missing Suzanne and Rich's tok tok. We then got a text from Debra "Arrested in Marrakesh-what an adventure!" and my phone started ringing.  It was Rich telling me they had had an accident (everyone was fine), and the police were there and wouldn't let the driver go.  I put Mo on the phone and he took off to find them. A while later, we saw Mo running alongside a toktok carrying our heroes.




After disembarking, Suzanne gave an animated blow by blow


After the our excitement for the trip, we stopped in the medina to learn about the art of Berber carpet weaving (and Berber carpet selling!)


The carpets were beautiful and several were purchased by members of our tour, but the 6 of us remained unscathed.  Jeri and Suzanne did get a chance to try their hand in Berber weaving.



Next stop was the herbalist, where we learned about the art of herbalism (and herbal selling).


We were all seated in a lavishly decorated salon and served, you guessed it, mint tea.  After this we were given a lecture about all the herbs and spices that were available here.  I believe that if you took all the herbal preparations they had here, you could cure everything from cold sores to cancer.  We almost  went for a nasal decongestant ( Suzanne had a cold and it really cleared her sinuses-for a few minutes at least), but then we found out that the main ingredient was menthol and figured that Vick's Vapo Rub was probably quite a bit cheaper. 









We were suckers, though, for local spices.  Compared to home, they were very inexpensive, but we still dropped a c-note.  A significant portion of that came from 2 grams (minimum order) of saffron which they weigh out in front of you and place in tiny little vials.  I felt like we were buying cocaine from a classy dealer (which may be cheaper than saffron). We learned that real saffron is the stigma from the Crocus sativus flower. These are the thread-like, red-orange female parts of the flower that are carefully hand-picked and dried. Each flower contains three stigmas, and hundreds are needed to make just one gram of the spice, which is why saffron is so expensive. Fake saffron (which is what is often sold as the real thing) does not have the three stigmas together.

Our final visit was to the olive shops.  There were dozens of types of olives, black, red, green, purple, and spiced with different blends.  Tasting was not discouraged.

After walking around the souk all afternoon, we took a horse drawn carriage ride from the medina through the new part of Marrakesh.  








The new parts of the city were drastically different from the old medina.  It was hard to believe they were the same city.  The new city had beautiful fountains, wide avenues, and new modern construction. 




We finished our ride as the sun set and returned to the old medina for some rest.