Moroccan Odyssey Day 12

Morocco Day 12: Travel to Erfoud- Gate to the Sahara

Not sure if there will be any internet service for the next few days while we are in the desert.  If no posts, don't worry.  Check back in a few days

Moroccan Odyssey Day 11

 Morocco Day 11:  Volubilis and Meknes

Morrocan Oddysey Day 10

Morocco Day 10: Fes Medina and Home Visit

After breakfast, we made a pilgrimage to the local laundry.  Up to 10 lbs of clothes cost a whopping 600 Dirhams ($6!!!).  It's almost worth bringing your laundry here from home. It will be dried, folded and wrapped within 2 hours.

We entered the mellah (Jewish Quarter) which can be identified by the exterior balconies (distinguishing it from the lack of windows in the old Moslem riyadhs). The Jewish communities existed in Fès almost from its founding by Idris I in the late 8th century. When Idris II (early 9th century) established Fès el-Bali, he welcomed diverse populations, including Jews from Tunis, Andalusia, and the Middle East. Many Jews settled in the Adwat al-Yahud (“Jewish Bank”) quarter near the river. They worked as traders, dyers, metalworkers, and physicians, forming an essential part of the city’s economy. 

Around 1438, Sultan Abd al-Haqq II ordered the Jews to move to a designated quarter — the Mellah of Fès, the first Jewish quarter in Morocco. The Mellah stood next to the Royal Palace (Dar al-Makhzen) in Fès el-Jdid, 

The community grew with refugees from the Spanish Expulsion of 1492 and Portuguese persecutions. By the 19th century, Fès had 10,000–15,000 Jews, one of the largest communities in Morocco.Under the French Protectorate (1912–1956), many Jews moved to the Ville Nouvelle (new town), working in business and administration. After Morocco’s independence (1956), most Jews emigrated to Israel, France, or Canada.Today, only a few families remain.

The Ibn Danan Synagogue is one of the oldest and most beautifully preserved synagogues in Morocco. It was built in the 18th century by a prominent Jewish family, the Ibn Danans, who were part of Fès’s wealthy Jewish elite.

The synagogue served as a center of religious and community life for the Jews of Fès for centuries. It was abandoned for a time in the 20th century, but underwent major restoration in the 1990s with help from UNESCO and the Moroccan government.

There is a mikvah (bath) in the basement of the synagogue.  Oddly, there is an opening that allows one to see into the mikvah from the sanctuary.  Supposedly this was to allow (female) cousins and freinds to watch the pre-wedding ritual bath.  Odd custom.

This area is known as the wedding planner street, where we found shop after shop of wedding planners.  In the windows were large domed platters that are used to bring gifts to a woman you are proposing to.  They are covered so nosy neighbors won't be able to tell the wealth aof the suitor by the type and number of gifts.

The Royal Palace is found just outside of the mellah. 

Originally built in the 13th century, during the Marinid dynasty. It was one of several royal palaces across Morocco and is still owned and used by the King of Morocco for official visits and ceremonies. The complex is about 200 acres, but all we could see is the main gate. The seven large brass doors of the main gate symbolize the seven days of the week and the seven levels of heaven in Islamic tradition. 

We entered the souk, and were immediately taken aback by the narrow lanes and alleys

and the crowds.

And then a real shocker!

The camel butcher

A bit more appetizing was the pancake lady's wares.

Very thin dough is placed on this black round very hot cooker

Some type of jam with nuts is placed on top

YUMMMM

After spending time in the souk with the camel heads it was time for lunch

Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University was founded in 859 CE by Fatima al-Fihri, a woman from a wealthy immigrant family. It is recognized by UNESCO and more importantly, the Guinness World Records as the world’s oldest continuously operating university. It is still a functioning mosque and theological institution, open only to Muslims for prayer, but the guard was nice enough to let us peer inside.

No trip to Fes is complete without a visit to the Chouara Tannery. It is the largest and most iconic of Fès’s ancient leather tanneries, dating back to the 11th century. Workers still treat hides using traditional, natural methods pigeon droppings, lime, and plant dyes (saffron for yellow, indigo for blue, coal for black etc.).  The smell is so bad that as you enter the tannery, you get a sprig of mint to stuff up your nose while viewing the process.

Jeri fell in love with a goatskin leather jacket that the owner  (multiple great-grandson of the founder) proved was both water proof and fireproof (so you don't need worry that the fire hoses would damage the coat during a blaze).  After a considerable amount of haggling, we settled on a price taht included a purse and a pair of slippers for Gabby.  I also made them trow in a pair for Suzanne. 

 Bou Inania Madrasa was built by the Marinid Sultan Abu Inan Faris in the 14th century. It is famous for its  wood, marble, and zellij tilework. It was a boarding high school  and acted as a prep school for the Al-Qarawiyyin University.

Three students to a room about 6'x6'

Azzdine having grown up in the medina, knew every tiny one of the 9,000 alleyways and took us through most of them.  The final shortcut took us through a dark, narrow and low (even for me) tunnel.  

Finally made it out of the souk alive

In the evening, we all went to private homes for dinner and a chance to interact with local Moroccans.  OAT contracts with a number of families for these home visits which is a win/win for all concerned.  It allows us to get to know some locals and see how they live as well as ask questions about their daily lives. It gives the family a chance to do the same with Americans as well as learn some English and help supplement their income.  We are also ambassadors for the US (sorely needed presently).

Our host was an English teacher who had amjored in English Lit at university (her favorite author was Shakespeare), and her husband who was an owner chef at a small restaurant on the lower floor of their riyadh.  They shared the riyadh with his mother and father, and aunt, cousins and their two children ages 2 and 4.

Jeri and I were concerned when lamb tajine was served for dinner, since neither of us like lamb, but the dish was excetional.  Probably a combination of fresh lamb, good recipe, and an excellent chef.  In addition to the main course, we had traditional Moroccan soup (harira) that was the best we've had here, and wonderful salads.  Dessert was flan that Molly said rivaled the Cuban flan in Florida.

After dinner Rania brought out dresses for the ladies to try on.  As usual, they all looked stunning!

After a very enjoyable evening, we were escorted back to the riyadh by the entire family

After hugs and a warm smile from the 2 year old we said goodnight.

Before we went to bed, though, we found a Fez from Fes which Molly just had to model for us.

Tororrow we are taking an excursion to the Roman ruins of Volubilis.