Rhine River Cycling Day 7 Bonn to Cologne (Köln)

Day 7: Bonn to Cologne

This morning (another beautiful one), the boat slowed down in Bonn and we all jumped off.  Actually, it was a bit more civilized than that, but the boat did make a special stop just for our group to get off so that we could ride to Köln (Cologne). We found our bike this morning all tricked out by our guides for our anniversary with roses and assorted other floral species and a big “Happy Anniversary” sign.  The guides on Backroads trips are amazingly thoughtful!

The ride into the center of Köln was pretty flat and, unfortunately, not terribly scenic.  We passed a huge refinery between Bonn and Köln (the refineries were probably the reason that the aAllied bombers paid so much attention to Köln during WWII.   We arrived at the main square well before lunchtime.  Today was a special day in Köln, hunger awareness day, when the city provides free food for the homeless.  There was also live entertainment in the main square to help raise money for a group called “Tavel” (another word for table in German) which collects food for the food pantries in town.  

We felt a bit guilty going into Gilden im Simms, an historic Brauhaus (beer hall) situated on the corner of the main square. Köln is famous for a locally produced beer called Kölsch Bier.                        

The Kölsch beer is clear, light, highly fermented and slightly bitter with a hoppy flavor.  It is not as filling as other beers and very refreshing especially after a ride.

In the Brauhauses of Köln, the Kölsch beer is traditionally served all you can drink style served continually by the proprietor with a large tray.  If your glass is empty (or even low), and you do not cover it with a coaster, your beer is magically replaced.  It is easy to not keep track of the volume of beer consumed.

In addition to the beer, the food kept on coming.  We had salads, wienerschnitzel (veal cutlets that were outstanding), sausage and roasted potatoes, and some delicious fried potatoes, Reibekuchen (like latkes). Then dessert, apple strudel and ice cream!  

We waddled out after lunch to meet a local guide for a walking tour of Köln.  Köln is the 4^thlargest city in Germany with a population of about 1 million.  It spans the Rhine with the original settlement (Romans in 50 AD) on the southwest bank and the expansion settlement on the northwest.  Because the ravages of WWII left Köln in literal shambles with very few homes and businesses left habitable, most of the city dates back to the 1950’s and 1960’s.  Insurance and the tv industry are major driving forces in the local economy. 

These statues in a courtyard off the main square are 2 beloved German cartoon characters,Tunnes and Schal.  Rubbing their noses will supposedly bring you good luck.  Ben got a bit carried away.

 The major attraction of the city is the Kölner Dom, or the Cologne Cathedral.  The cathedral was built between 1200 and 1860 in order to store the relics of the Magi which are supposedly housed here, and was the tallest structure in Europe until the Eiffel Tower’s construction in 1889  Because it took so long to finish (funding issues) by the time it was completed, metal roofs had become fashionable; this kept the risk of fire down dramatically reducing the risk of the recent fate of Notre Dame.  Although the entire city of Köln was destroyed by Allied bombing during WWII, the cathedral was spared.  This was probably due to the fact that Allied used the spires of the cathedral as a navigational landmark for bombing raids.   

After touring the cathedral, most of the group walked back to the ship, but Rich, Rick and I decided to walk up to the top of the spire for the view with about 1000 of our closest friends. We climbed the 500 or so step spiral staircase (got pretty dizzy) to the top.  

We did get beautiful views of the Rhine,

 and also were able to see the oil refineries that we had passed earlier in the day.

On the way down, we sopped at the carillon.  Since it was close to 4 pm, we decided to stay and here the bells fire off at 4. Our concern about the potential injurie to our ears was unfounded.  The only bell that rang was the smallest, bonging only 4 times for the hour. Quite the disappointment.

This was a beautiful Saturday afternoon, and I think all 1 million locals were out in force today walking along the Rhine enjoying the day.  These children were certainly loving the bubble man.

Back to the boat for dinner. As we cruised during dinner, we got a wonderful anniversary present, a huge, vivid double rainbow! A very nice anniversary.