Spanish Holiday Day 17

 Day 17: San Sebastian

We had nothing scheduled with a guide today until late afternoon, so we decided to explore on our own.

San Sebastian (or Donostia in the Basque language),  is located in Basque country only 12 miles from the French border.  Their economy is based primarily on tourism, with a major draw being the SSIFF, the San Sebastian International Film Festival, going on as we speak. The town is full of the rich and famous, so we fit right in (LOL).  It began as a Roman settlement in the 1st century AD at the base of the Urgull Mountain that now borders old town,  and in 1000 AD a monastery was built here.  The city was chartered  in 1181 and became an important strategic port for protection against the French.  By the mid 1800's,  the town became a seaside resort thanks to it being chosen by the Spanish royalty as a retreat and styling it after the nearby French resort of Biarritz.  After some ups and downs, it is now a major high-end tourist destination. 

The Kiss

City Hall

There are two major beaches in town, one on either side of the estuary (the Urumea River) that divides the city; the surfer beach, Zurriola to the east, and the bathing beach, Playa de la Concha to the west.  We decided to head to Playa de la Concha which seemed to be where all the action was.  The beach was a 2 mile crescent beginning at the base of Mount Urgull near the Old Town, passing a small island in the middle of the bay, and ending at the base of Mount Igeldo, our ultimate goal.

Along the route we passed through a pedestrian tunnel with a beautifully painted ceiling that made you feel like you were underwater.

At the base of Mt Igeldo the rock showed interesting striations in a myriad directions, attestation to the tectonic upheavals that created the area.

At the end of the walkway, there was a bizarre piece of artwork called the Wind Comb by Eduardo Chillida. Peña  Ganchegui, an architect, designed the site including a series of blowholes that are active when the suf is high.  Fortunately for us, it was another beautiful, calm day, so no spouting water.

As with most modern art, none of us "got it", but it made for nice photos.

The view from Mi Igeldo was a must see in San Sebastian, so up we went (by funicular).  Near the funicular station, David found a tennis club to check out.  He has some form of tennis radar.

Funicular to Monte Igueldo

Funicular

The view from the top certainly did not disappoint.

La Concha Bay from Monte Igueldo Summit

I think Molly had her eyes closed all the way upand down the funicular ride, but I think she agreed the view was worth it.

On the way back, we stopped at Miramar, an English style estate and gardens on a hill overlooking La Concha.  This was built by the Queen Maria Christina, wife of Alfonso XII.  The royal family summered here in San Sebastian, and she had the estate constructed  in 1885 (with her own finances in order not to burden the local people financially) after the King died.

By this time, we were beginning to feel the pangs of hunger creep in, and we stopped at La Pearla, a well known resort and spa right on the beach,  and had Tintos and Tapas.

Lunch at La Perl

Patatas Brava

Black Ink Cuddlefish Balls

Burrata and Tomatoe Salad

At the fishing port, we entertained ourselves watching a boat owner navigate his boat from the tightest slips we had ever seen

That evening, we met our guide, for a night on the town eating Pintxos (pronounced "Pinchoss"), the Basque equivalent of tapas. and sampling the local favorite libations, hard cider, and a local white wine, txakoli ("chocoli").

Prior to our feast, we walked around the old town viewing several churches

Basilica of Santa Maria

Iglesia de San Vincente

and the more modern Good Shepherd of San Sebastian Cathedral (opened in 1897)

We stopped in Constitution Plaza for a walk through (back later for Pintxos. The square was built in 1817 and in order to pay for it, the city used it for bull fighting.  The construction was paid off in just 2 years!

and then, finally, food and drink.  San Sebastian is home to the 2nd largest number of Michelin star restaurants in the world.  We didn't stop at any.  But the ambiance was (I'm sure) much more fun.

We learned the correct method of poring cider from a special bottle with a cork that allows the fluid to come out of the side of it aerating the cider.  I tried it and got some in the glass.  

Didn't want to offend the guide, but neither the cider nor the wine were big hits.

Jeri "enjoying" a glass of txakoli

The pintxos were, on the other hand quite good, including these beef cheeks slow-cooked in wine sauce.  Tasted a lot like braised short ribs.

We ended the night back in Constitution Plaza, for a last drink of the night.  Jeri, wisely, stuck with a local grape juice.

Tomorrow, we have our last hike to the Valley of Colors.