Italy's Amalfi Coast Day 5

Day 5: Hiking the Path of the Gods

Today we got up early, yet again, to set out on the Path of the Gods. Our driver today was again Francesco, but a different one.  Are all drivers in southern Italy named Francesco?  We will have to wait and see. Our hiking guide for the day, Lucca, was joining us for the 50 min drive to the start of the path in Agerola (only about 13 miles, but an altitude of about 2,000 feet. It is the oldest village on the Amalfi Coast set in a valley in the Monti Lattari (Milky Mountains(. The name derives from the flocks of goats grazing in the area, which provide  good quality of milk (lactis in Latin).  This statue is in the town square in honor of the regions milk production now from both goats and cows.

The Path of the Gods or Il Sentiero degli Dei, has its name derived from Greek mythology. Legend says it was cut into the earth by the gods as they stampeded down from heaven to save Ulysses from the sirens’ song as they lured his ship into the rocks near Positano.  The trail is one of the world’s most stunning hikes with constant views of the rugged Amalfi Coast and Capri in the distance.  

The Path begins in Agerola and extends about 4 ½ miles to Nocelle a hamlet of Positano high up on the mountain. Though the trail has an overall elevation loss of 600 feet, the elevation gain (due to many ups and downs) is about 1800 feet.  

The hike began in town on paved road taking us past beautiful vegetable gardens with ripe tomatoes and eggplants as well as small vineyards.

Lucca was a fantastic guide giving us a wealth of information as we traversed the trail.   He pointed out a wide variety of wild herbs including rosemary, mint, oregano, and dill.

Shortly after getting onto the actual path, we came upon a goatherd who had 150 goats along the path.  He milks all these goats daily and has to hike the Path from his home to the goats each day. 

He also has 2 donkeys to help move the milk, Limone (the large one), and Limoncello (the small one).

The hike was one stunning view after the next. There was never a point where the scenery was not exceptional.

There are distinct vegetation zones along the path including citrus groves, olive trees, vineyards, and forest. Cultivated areas are all terraced.

Chestnut forests are the highest zone of flora at the tree line and the wood is used to produce the pergolas that grape vines are grown on.  

We passed a vertical precipice that Lucca noted was a top rock-climbing spot.  

I just couldn’t resist doing a bit of free climbing. Fortunately, we didn’t have to call Global Rescue to get me off the mountain.

We finally reached Nocelle, the end of the trail for us. If we were heartier (or more stupid), we could have descended 2,000 steps to Positano and then walk a half mile to a spot where are driver could pick us up.

Positano from the Path

The End

Nether of those appealed to us so we opted for pick-up by Francesco (the original Francesco) in Nocelle.

We returned to the hotel and finally got to enjoy the pool. It was a perfect end to the day of hiking. 

Dinner at another restaurant below our hotel, Armandino's, was fair, but the views of the hotel and nearby Saracen Tower (ancient signal towers that were used to warn of impending pirate attacks) at night were beautiful.