Croatia Day 18

 Day 18: Truffle Hunting, Motovun and Groznjan

This morning we drove to the Motovun Region in search of the golden mushroom, the truffle. The Mirna River valley and the Motovun Forest are known for their rich truffle deposits, making them popular spots for truffle hunting. The Prodan family has been in the truffle business for 3 generations and now open their home and private forest  to visitors. 

Presently, the grandchildren of the original owners are running the operation.  They both grew up here truffle hunting and training truffle hunting dogs as kids.  After getting degrees in business for Mirko, and mechanical engineering for his sister,Visnja,  they both returned to the family business.

Mirko began by introducing us to truffles after the obligatory grappa.  This grappa was infused with mistletoe.  Celts invaded the region a thousand years ago and brought with them some of their customs.  Mistletoe was a prominent plant for the Celts with mystical powers.  Somehow it found its way into the locals' grappa.

Many wild animals will dig up and eat truffles, probably the best known is the wild boar. Pigs were used in the past by truffle hunters, but they soon realized that dogs, who are more easily worked with, could be trained for this purpose.  The Prodans currently have 5 trained dogs that they rotate for truffle hunting.  Training starts when puppies are about 2 months old, involving finding truffles for treats.  The hiding becomes more complex as the dog progresses until they can find truffles buried underground. Truffles can be anywhere from the surface to about 3 feet subterranean. Any dog can be taught but they had 2 purebred  Italian waterdogs and 3 mixed breeds.  

Capo, one of the Italian water dogs, was chosen to be our hunter today. He was thrilled to show his stuff.

Within about a ten minute hike, he started clawing at the ground, a sign that a truffle was present.  Mirko had to get to him quickly before the truffle was damaged by claws, or eaten.

At this point, a special truffle shovel is used to dig the truffle out of the ground, a painstaking process that is not dissimilar to an archeologist uncovering a buried relic. Damaging the truffle in any way renders it unsellable.  We were now starting to understand why truffles were so expensive.

Capo guarding the truffle shovel

Returning after a successful hunt

After the hunt, we were treated to a 2nd breakfast whipped up by Visnja .

First course was cheese, salami, and a variety of spreads, all made with truffles.

I put on my big boy pants and tried the cheese,

and I didn't die.

Because I tried the cheese, we shamed Molly into trying the eggs.  Didn't go over so well. The rest of us, though , found them delicious.

Dessert- gelato and truffle honey served on a truffle shovel

After a delicious Hobbit breakfast, we made some truffle purchases (they do not give truffle products away,, but at least we now know why) and reboarded the Mario wagon for a drive to Motovun.

Finding this cyclist riding up these steep cobblestone streets inspired us to 

RENT BIKES! (or not) We decided it waws too late in the day for bike rentals, so instead, hit another tiny hill town, Groznjan

A vie of Motovun from Groznjan

After a long day of sightseeing and walking on old, steep, cobbled streets (and legs),  we got back to the hotel about 7.  Rich found a restaurant next to our hotel that could take us at 7;30, so we made a mad dash to freshen up and get to dinner.  Molly opted for a shower and a glass of wine in their room and early to bed.  

After dinner, we went in search of Spaghettieis for Dave. He had been intrigued when he saw it the night before and I had told him we had it in Berlin when we had visited Iwona and Lothar.  It is vanilla ice cream put through a special "Spaghettieis ricer", creating the spaghetti.  Strawberry sauce is next added (the tomato sauce), and then white chocolate or coconut for the cheese.

Not quite the Berlin rendition, here, but Dave did a pretty good job on it.

The waterfront was very lively and we spent a few minutes listening to a vey talented young woman while we ate our gelato (Spaghettieis is a one and done thing).