Morocco Day 2: Casablanca
Casablanca is Morocco's largest city and economic capital, Located on the Atlantic coast, Casablanca has evolved from a small Berber settlement into a city with over 3 million people (we've actually heard estimates ranging from 3-6 million from drivers to various tour guides)
The area around Casablanca has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with early Berber tribes settling along the coast. The city’s name originates from the Arabic “Dar al-Bayda,” meaning “White House,” though it was later translated into Spanish as “Casablanca” during the period of Iberian influence in the region.
The area was origially known as Anfa, a Berber settlement that became a significant port during the Roman Empire. Although it declined after the fall of Rome, Anfa reemerged in the Middle Ages as a pirate haven. The Portuguese invaded the area in order to control trade routes and destroyed Anfa in 1468. In the 18th century, the town was rebuilt under Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah, who re-established it as a trading post and renamed it Dar al-Bayda.
In the early 1900's during the French Protectorate, the city was Europeanized and had a very French flair with much of the old parts of the city replaced by "modern" French architecture.
After meeting our guide for the day, Abdallah, we began to drive to the Medina (old city). But first, we had to make the pilgrimmage to Rick's Cafe since Casablanca with Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergmann is my favorite movie. The movie was not actually filmed in Casablanca, but rather on a backlot in Hollywood, but this Rick's is a replica of the movie set. Since it was 9am, the bar was not yet opened so we couldn't stop in for a drink or a listen to Sam playing "As Time Goes By".
We then began our walk into the Medina.
On the street, we sampled fresh prickly pear.
A big hit with everyone but Jeri!
Our plan for today's tour was to visit Jewish cultural sites in Casablanca. Unfortunately, I'd forgotten that today was the last day of Succoth (one of the Jewish High Holidays for non-Jews reading this), so all Jewish sites were closed. Services were taking place at the Temple Beth-El, and we sat in on the Torah reading. A couple of interesting notes: The final reading read from a second Torah (Maftir) was read from a Torah that was in a solid case and read with the Torah in a vertical position. Also, there was someone using hand gestures, like a conductor, we presumed was to signal the correct notes for chanting from the Torah.
The Jewish Museum was closed and although the Ettedgui Synagogue was also closed, but Abdallah convinced the guard to let us come in for a quick visit. The Ettedgui family was a prominent merchant family in the 1860's that obtained a plot of land for a synagogue from the sultan. The synagogue was finally built in the 1920's. During WWII, the synagogue was destroyed during an Allied bombardment. In 2011 restoration began as part of a program to rehabilitate the Medina. It was reopened in 2016 along with an adjacent small museum. It is presently not in use for services, though.
We stopped for lunch to sample Moroccan food at an authentic non-tourist restaurant.
We left the Medina and drove to the beach area of Casablanca. From here we had nice views of the Hassan II Mosque, one of the largest mosques in the world. The minaret was the tallest in the world until a couple of years ago when Algiers built one a few feet taller (lots of animosity between Algeria and Morocco).
The lighthouse at the tip of the El Hank headland was built in 1920. Prior to this, the waters around Casablanca were considered the most dangerous in the world.
We drove through the expensive area of Casablanca and got to see the location of the famous Casablanca Conference where, in 1943 during WWII Churchill and Roosevelt met to strategize rhe war.
The Central Market was our last stop. It was built in 1917 and was the min market during the French Protectorate. Today, it is a local market for fresh meat
and fish. This fishmonger was trying to get Dave to eat a raw shrimp (which the fish monger did to show us it was safe), but EVEN Dave refused.
We couldn't resist a stop (and a purchase) at the world famous Patisserie Bennis Habou.
A bit of pottery caught Suzanne's eye and after some haggling, agreed on a price and brought home our first souvenir.
These were some of the largest avocados we've ever seen.
Last stop was the olive and spice area. Sampling was encouraged.
Abdallah deposited us back at our hotel where we met up with the other 5 travellers in our group for the Morocco pre-trip. After a brief intro by our group leader, Mohammed, we went to dinner at a local restaurant. Because we were still digesting our huge lunch, we all ate pretty light (soup for Molly, Suzanne, Rich, Jeri and me, full dinner for Dave).
Off to Chefchaufen tomorrow.
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