African Safari 2019-Chimps, Gorillas, and the Migration Day 4

Day 4: Drive to Papaya Lodge- Kibale

Sunday was busy, but Monday morning, leaving Kampala, was insane.  The traffic, especially at the roundabouts, was about the worst we’ve seen anywhere.  The motorcyclists definitely do not believe in traffic laws (not even as a suggestion). We saw motorcycles travelling the wrong way on a divided highway to avoid traffic. Most of the motorcycles are “boda bodas, unregistered (with unlicensed drivers) motorcycle taxis that carry 1, 2, or even 3.  Ismail’s wife is an ER nurse in the largest hospital in Kampala, and most of her business is from these boda bodas.  Best to spring for a real taxi.

Furniture "stores" like this one lined the main roads with all their inventory out on the street.  Jeri and Molly did a lot of window shopping.

Once out of Kampala, the region became very rural and even poorer.  Running water and electricity are scarce and houses are either mud or homemade brick (brick kilns adorn many front yards here). 

Visiting grandparents is a Sunday activity, and this being Sunday, these kids are waiting for a bus to visit grandma and grandpa and bringing chicken as a gift.

 

Farming is done primarily by hand, backbreaking and slow work.  Bananas are grown everywhere and are brought by kids on bikes or on foot to central locations to be picked up by trucks and brought into Kampala for sale. 

Another major crop is tea. Tea plantations encompass large swathes of the land as the elevation increases.

We made a lunch stop at the Garden Restaurant in Fort Portal, the last big town before we get to Kibale.  Here we had a chance to sample some of the local foods including cassava, yams (not your Thanksgiving yams), pumpkin, plantains, goat stew, and Irish potatoes.  Some good, some not so good.

 We did get to see some wildlife along the way.  Baboons

and a variety of birds

The trip lasted well over 5 hours and when we finally reached the Papaya Lodge, we were ecstatic to get out of our Land Rover.  

Dave was exhausted from all the driving

The lodge is in the region of Kibale dotted by about 25 crater lakes.  It is set high above Lake Lyantonde, one of these lakes with gorgeous views of the mountains in the distance. The hotel consisted of the main lodge and 10 individual cottages that are located about 100 feet below. 

Our cottage had a large deck overlooking the lake.  A solar panel supplied the electricity for light (so to speak), and hot water was supplied from individual wood burning hot water heaters that were fired up at 4 am and 4 pm.

After checking in, we stretched our legs with a hike from the lodge with a local guide, Roberto. We walked between Lake Lyantonde and the adjacent lake, through fields of bananas and corn.  Roberto gave us some of the history of the area.  Kibale means prison or punishment area.  Early on, the local king sent offenders here as punishment because the area was infested with biting dog flies that caused elephantiasis. Eventually, people realized that the volcanic soil was very rich for farming, and the area became an agricultural center. Small children were everywhere, mostly with no adult anywhere to be seen.  They seemed to be very amused when we tried to say hello in the local language (Lutolo)- “Oleota kurangi” (How are you? I’m fine.).  They loved to high-five us, but then asked for money or treats, which was very disappointing.  

The small community near the lodge is supported by outside funds from Nat Habitat and the European Union. We walked through the small school and found this dental mural (one of many anatomy murals) on the wall of the school building. 

Back at the lodge, after a shower, we had a fantastic dinner.  Early morning tomorrow for chimpanzee tracking!