Travels with Craig and Jeri: Africa 2017-Day16

Day 16- Hwange N.P, A Day in the Life- Visit to the Zimbabwean Village of Bangali

This morning’s activity was “A Day in the Life”, learning how Zimbabweans live. We first bussed into one of the day markets in Hwange, a town of about 60,000, supported by the local coal industry. It was quite interesting walking around the market stalls. The first person we talked to had a small recycling business. He made pots by melting down old tire rims and casting the metal, sandals and donkey harnesses from tires, and my favorite, a pick from old water pipes (handle) and car springs sharpened on a grinder (pick). Many of the shops sold food including the kapenta we had in Lufupa Camp, and mopani worms (a delicacy here-more about these later). There was also what appeared to be small rocks for sale. We asked the proprietor what they were used for, and she told us that you ate them. She claimed that they were soft enough to break down in your mouth. We were not about to try them, fearing a potential trip to the local dental clinic. We later found out from Mandela that it was dirt high in iron primarily eaten by pregnant women, African Feosol. We stopped to talk to a woman with a young girl and baby in tow. When we asked the little girl’s name, she informed us it was Jeraldine! She gave us a huge smile when Jeri told her that that was hers as well. Interestingly, her sister’s name was Shalom. Maybe there are some landsmann (fellow Jews for you non-Yiddish speakers) here. Haven’t seen a single synagogue, though.

We left the outdoor market for the center of town and the local supermarket. We were going shopping to bring presents to the village we would visit next. We were expecting a primitive food store, but amazed to find a modern, western-style grocery that even had a prepared food section and bakery. Mandela gave us each a piece of paper with an African word and amount on it, and we were instructed to find out what it was and find it in the store. We had to find Lupuphu. I asked one of the local shoppers, who informed us it was maize, and then kindly walked us to the area and pointed out the 5kg bag. Prices in the store were very reasonable by our standards, until Jeri pointed out the 80% unemployment and the low wages for those who are lucky enough to get a job. The entire shopping cart cost only $40. With the rest of the money we all had donated (about $140) we planned to by 2 goats for the village of Bangali, just outside of Hwange. Mandela arranged for two goats to be brought to the village where we would purchase them and give them as a present to the community.

We arrived at Bangali to a warm welcome from about 30 adults and children with dancing and singing. We were introduced to the elders of the home we were visiting, Francesca (not her tribal name, but she was educated at a Catholic mission school nearby) and Phillip. Francesca took us on a tour of their compound. Our first stop was the kitchen, centrally located but not connected to living quarters (similar to many 18^th century homes in N. America). The structure was built by the women in the extended family by hand using material from nearby termite mounds to make a type of brick and then plastering with mud also made from termite mounds. The walls are smoothed with bare hands. The women take pride in designing a building built-in shelves that create a very attractive wall. The men build the roof and thatch it.

The bathing area is very primitive, only a tarp wrapped around a simple skeleton and cold water bath.

The toilet is a long drop that they use until it fills then move to another area. It takes 5 years for the area is fit to be used again.

Next door to the “bathroom” was the goat pen, which Francesca called her private bank. They had 22 goats in there with just room enough a couple more. Goats are sold when bills come due, and interest in this bank comes from the goats multiplying.

Francesca and Phillip had 8 children but one died. There children are working and built a cinderblock 4 room house for them that is a work in progress. They have no electricity or running water (though they recently got a spigot in their compound so they do not have to go to the river a few hundred meters away to fetch it), but they now have solar panels that power their TV (sat dish on roof), stereo, and computer (which Francesca knows nothing about, though her grandchildren are whizzes-sound familiar?).

The temperature outside was climbing, so we all went into the dining area to meet some of the extended family and hear their stories. Several children came in to show off their command of the English language. All were very cute. Carol adopted one of the young boys, Alex, particularly smart, inquisitive, and very personable. She named him the next Mandela (our Mandela, not Nelson)

We were also invited to try some of their local delicacies including breadfruit, kapenta, and mopani worms. They were crunchy and bit salty, not bad tasting, but difficult to swallow. But I did it along with several others of our group. Peer pressure is great!

Just before we left, we distributed presents that we brought, the groceries that we bought, and the two goats that we got for a steal, 2 zuzim per goat (reference the Passover Hagaddah for you non-Jews), actually $65 for the 2 goats. After the 2 goats and $40 for the groceries, there was enough left over for the community to buy another goat. More money in the bank. Everyone was thrilled with the presents, though we all wished we had known how many children there would be. We wished we had more to give them. Both the children and the adults showed their gratitude with hugs and singing. The whole morning was very moving for all of us there.

Phillip Greeting Us

Jeri Getting Help with her Chitanga

Francesca's Kitchen

Shower

"The Bank"

Jeri and Anne Learning how to Grind Maize

The Pros from Dover

Maize

Ground Maize

Mapani Worms

Ken Crunching a Big One

On the return trip, we stopped off at the local school, to drop off some supplies we had brought, and to use their bathroom (very important when in the bush, especially with this age group). Although school was not in session, we did get to see a classroom. It could have been a classroom at any school in the U.S. (removing some of the church references-this was a school started and supported by Catholic missionaries), except for the fact that the classroom had 55 seats! That is about 4 times the class size at the Ray School in Hanover.