Friday, February 12, 2016

Day 4 Atacama Desert

The alarm blared this morning at 5 am.  We scrambled to dress in multiple layers for our early morning excursion to 13,800 feet to see the Geisers del Tatio (Geyser s).  Our group consisted of us and two other families that we hiked with previously, an Australian couple and their son who will be competing in the sailing world championships in a 470 class (for you sailors out there) in Buenos Aires in a couple of weeks, and a British couple.  We were just missing Glenys and Tony, the first British couple we had met and hiked with yesterday. Oh, by the way, did I mention our guide was Manfred again.  We really lucked out! We all tried to snooze as best we could (all but our driver) on the 1 1//2 hour ride, most of which was on bone-jarring, washboard roads climbing 6000 feet.  We got to the geyser field just as the sun was rising.  The van was warm and toasty, but when we climbed out the contrast certainly woke us from our reverie.  The temperature was 23 F but felt much colder.  The humidity was extremely high because of the geysers especially compared to the 30% or so we had been experiencing in the desert.  Fortunately, we were prepared, Jeri in her ususal 7 layers, and me in 3.


The geysers were like mini Yellowstone, but concentrated in a relatively small area.  There was also a hot spring that looked inviting (I actually brought my suit), but the thought of having to get out of the water in 20 degree temps dissuaded me.  I guess I AM getting old.  That never would have stopped me in the past.

As the sun rose, the geysers, fumaroles, and mud-pots all looked spectacular.  Also, the temperature began to rise and it got quite comfortable. 









I thought again about the hot spring, but we were invited for breakfast, and since we hadn’t had dinner last night, we were starving.  My stomach won out.   

                                        

                           

                                               
The drive home, though still jarring, was great.  The scenery was beautiful, and we were treated to many sightings of vicunas along the road.  



The vicuna is the last of the 3 cameloid species that we would be able to see here in Chile.  The fourth, alpacas, are found further north in Peru.  The vicuna is the smallest of the family, and live at the highest elevation (over 13,000 feet).  I guess they have a vicuna line here instead of treeline since there are no trees.  They are actually very cute animals. 




There was a large watering hole next to the road that gave us great viewing of vicunas feeding, and several waterfowl including the puna teal, coots and juvenile coots, and goslings.







Further ahead, Geena, one of our British co-travelers, spotted a vizcacha, a cross between a squirrel and a rabbit (also known as a green rabbit), sunning on the rocks near the road. 

We made one other stop to visit the mountain town of Muchaca.  Our star docent from last night, Joel, was from this town of shepherds, and today, there are only 4 inhabitants, 2 of his uncles, and 2 aunts.  They survive by selling llama kebabs and handicrafts to tourists.  Of note, Joel told us that his family was featured in the James Bond movie, Quantum Solace which was filmed in the area (though was supposed to be Bolivia in the movie).  We are going to have to re-watch the movie as soon as we get home.  Thank god the llama kebab line was too long for us to wait- we had to get the Brits, Geena and Geoff back for their noon departure.  Thus we were spared.  We did check out the church, though.  Seems a lot of church for 4 people.












All of the roads are dotted with little shrines to accident victims killed in crashes due to excessive speeds, sharp, blind curves, and sometimes altitude related lightheadedness.  Today we witnessed the immediate aftermath of one of those accidents.  Fortunately and miraculously, no one was even injured here.  We stopped to offer assistance, but the driver told us that help was on the way and we were not needed.  After that sobering picture, we continued back to the hotel.

It fortunately did not effect our appetites.  We were still calorie deprived from our skipped meal last night and our early morning excursion and a big lunch sounded like a great idea.

After lunch, we took a shuttle with our British friends, Glenys and Tony, into the metropolis of San Pedro de Atacama to check out the town and maybe do a little shopping.  San Pedro was hot and dusty with wide dirt roads with open drainage sluices along the street.  The majority of the stores were selling excursions to tourists and alpaca hats, sweaters, ponchos, etc.  There were a few restaurants and pensiones for the budget tourist.  The town square was packed with young hikers and dominated by the church.







We stopped into a few stores looking for a sweater for Jeri.  She couldn’t resist a pretty blue sweater especially at the price of 14,000 pesos (or about $20).  The shopkeeper swore it was alpaca, so, unless we DNA test the wool, we’ll never know.  But, if we think it’s alpaca, it is alpaca.

This young girl standing on a child bike carrier is something you don’t see everyday in the U.S.  Where is Child and Family Services when you need them?

We returned from our excursion into town(one hour which was more than enough time as far as we were concerned,) in time to get ready to go on to our next activity, mountain biking through El Canyon del Diablo (Devil’s Canyon) with Joel(our star docent from last night) 
and Rocio, one of the guides in training.  

From now on, Jeri and I have decided to bring bike shorts on all our trips, just in case.  Riding in plain old shorts just doesn’t cut the mustard, though we managed.

The ride was amazing.  After about a mile or so on “good roads”, we veered off across the San Pedro River into a beautiful canyon.  At some points along the ride, the canyon walls were so close, we had to squeeze our bikes through on foot.  We were both alittle tentative at the start, nott having much mountain biking experience, but eventually got into a nice rhythm. 




Even the sand we found negotiable until disaster struck.  About half-way back, Jeri was flying down the trail around sharp curves when all of a sudden, going down a short incline she found some deep sand that acted like a brake for her front wheel.  I watched in horror as she did a header over the handlebars landing face first in the dirt.  I was immediately relieved when she popped with a smile on her face, all limbs and head intact.  
                          
She had a few scrapes and some really nice bruises, but nothing serious.  After our guides broke out the first aid kit and cleaned and bandaged her (since the injuries were very minor and I just retired, I allowed them to play doctor), she jumped back on the horse and continued the ride (albeit somewhat more cautiously), all the time smiling and continuing to have a great time.  I have to say, my wife is quite a trooper. Her major comment about the incident was “what would a bike ride in a foreign country be without a fall or two?”


We made it back with no further incidents (except a broken derailleur within sight of the hotel) in time to shower and have a proper dinner.  We planned to eat early (8 pm- not our usual dinner time but earlier than we had been eating here) and get to bed at a reasonable hour considering our 5 am start, but we met Glenys and Tony in the dining room and wound up talking through dinner and well beyond.  We really got along very well together, and planned to try to keep in touch.

On the way back from dinner, we got one more glimpse of the amazing night sky and particularly the Milky Way.  Then some packing and bed.  Leaving tomorrow for Santiago and meeting up with Dave and Molly and Rhonda and Milt.










































































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